The words don’t exactly set your gastro-juices flowing, rather the
reaction is “open sandwiches, 27 ways of preparing herrings and salmon.
dear” and “I wonder whether I can still pronounce Rodgroed mit floede”,
a native dessert consisting of redcurrants and raspberries set in a
light semolina jelly served with cream – that’s the ‘floede’ bit.
is a premise in Old Brompton Road which used to be called
“Chanterelle”, to which I went because chanterelles are just about my
all-time favourite funghi. One day I went and the waiter said
“chanterelles are off” probably meaning unavailable, though possibly
“turned into that light brown sludge that mushrooms become after a
while at the wrong temperature” and then it re-opened under the name
“Lundums”, which sounds like going down on a condom. It took me a while
to check it out.
It is really good, with
handsomely cooked, interesting dishes – albeit in small portions at
proper prices – that would make customers return and food critics tell
each other to go.
Drive west from South Kensington station and it
is about half a mile on your left, on the corner. Large, light,
welcoming with real Danish staff.
There is a two-course menu at
an attractive price, but the a la carte dishes have about them a
promise of quality; you would go for that.
We had a boeuf
stroganoff for £21.85 (and there is a 13.5 per cent service charge)
which was very well made, but could – should – have been larger and I
ate a piece of cod which was excellent: nicely cooked, fresh, with
broad beans and potatoes for £18.50. Then a rice pudding with a sauce
of soured cherries that could not be faulted unless you wanted to
nit-pick and say there was not enough.
It was full; customers
were content, our waitress tried to explain where in Denmark she came
from: everywhere I mentioned, like most Danish towns I had been to,
were three hours away from her home.
They stay open quite lateâ€¦
as we left at 10.30pm there were still people coming in and the bill
arrived quickly; they found our coats without giving us cloakroom
tickets, which I always somehow lose.
Try the Danish
specialities; they are the ones you can’t pronounce. The wine list is
massive, wines from everywhere in the world, this and the next, though
if there is a bottle under £20, I missed it.